(an essay i wrote back in Nov 2004)
Not everyone understands surfers. Actually, almost all the time, only fellow surfers understand each other. Sometimes, we spend half our lives explaining ourselves—waking up so early because waves are best at dawn, spending hours and hours under the hot sun and salty waters, practically dehydrating ourselves, and starving ourselves, and paddling ‘till our arms feel like noodles, sunburn, the laid-back lifestyle, yadda, yadda…
I love to surf. I mean, it just makes me so happy. I can’t describe it…excitement and fear at the same time. There’s that rush while feeling peace and calmness. My way of telling it is experiencing irony. It’s a mix of totally different emotions that sort of roll into one, kind of like mixing colors you know. And that feeling is pure joy. Well at least for me.
The thirst, hunger, and soreness I feel in my body are worth one good ride. Facing the horizon, spotting a wave, I turn around, paddle, feel the board get a little pushed, I pop up and glide. It doesn’t last a lifetime, I tell you that but whether that ride lasted 5 seconds or 5 minutes, that awesome feeling inside will make me scream, turn around and paddle back to the line up. So what if I’m thirsty, tired AND hungry? That single wave is worth the roast my skin is getting.
Seeing the sun set along the horizon and holding my boyfriend’s hand while waiting for a wave is one thing I wouldn’t trade for anything in this world. I love to surf, it’s what makes me the happiest.
I love to surf. I mean, it just makes me so happy. I can’t describe it…excitement and fear at the same time. There’s that rush while feeling peace and calmness. My way of telling it is experiencing irony. It’s a mix of totally different emotions that sort of roll into one, kind of like mixing colors you know. And that feeling is pure joy. Well at least for me.
The thirst, hunger, and soreness I feel in my body are worth one good ride. Facing the horizon, spotting a wave, I turn around, paddle, feel the board get a little pushed, I pop up and glide. It doesn’t last a lifetime, I tell you that but whether that ride lasted 5 seconds or 5 minutes, that awesome feeling inside will make me scream, turn around and paddle back to the line up. So what if I’m thirsty, tired AND hungry? That single wave is worth the roast my skin is getting.
Seeing the sun set along the horizon and holding my boyfriend’s hand while waiting for a wave is one thing I wouldn’t trade for anything in this world. I love to surf, it’s what makes me the happiest.
Favorite part: "Holding my boyfriend’s hand while waiting for a wave." YEEEEE! <3
ReplyDeleteNice one niks, nakakagoosebumps naman! (kiddo, hindi lang alam ni Niks, her boyfriend is also holding jing & kiddo's hand hahahaha! just kidding)
ReplyDeleteGreat post. Looking forward to seeing the Coast Thru Life in the line up someday ;)
ReplyDelete